My mom had been mentioning a farmhouse famous for its aebleskiver (sort of the Danish equivalent of a beignet). And I'd been interested in driving, so I hopped behind the wheel and put on my 360° vision to be sure not to drive over any bicyclists or pedestrians (both of whom have the right-of-way in Denmark, making roundabouts extra interesting for a U.S. driver).
We merged onto the E20 and headed south at 130 km/hr. The E20 in this part of the world looks just like I-77, like an interstate in Anywhere, USA, except with windmills and Danish churches popping up on the countryside.
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This map is a little deceptive because we didn't actually go to Bøgede. Instead, near Bøgede, we cut off down winding, narrow backroad through marshy farmland. It was beautiful and remote, and we even saw a pheasant.
We ended up at Malerklemmen, a restored farmhouse complete with thatch. Thatch is quintessentially Danish but also rare these days because the fire risk makes for prohibitive insurance rates. Malerklemmen is an extremely popular hole-in-the wall kind of place, comparable to the Dan'l Boone Inn in Boone, NC, where you can get traditional fare in a farmhouse setting and the line to eat is out the door.We ordered three lattes and a plate of aebleskiver. Aebleskiver are warm dough balls sprinkled with powdered sugar and served with fruit preserves. We ate them huddled at a tiny, warped table in one of Malerklemmen's many small rooms, packed with Danish families and taxidermied animal heads.
On the way back to the E20, the fascinating sky we'd been remarking on finally opened up and pelted us with snowflakes. It was a light, non-sticking snow, but between Malerklemmen and our next stop in Greve, the temperature dropped by 15-20°.
Greve is the town where Mormor lives and it's also where Morfar (mother's father) has been buried for nearly 20 years.
We wrapped ourselves as tightly as possible in scarves and stuff and visited Morfar's grave. It was around 4, so daylight was disappearing fast. We didn't stick around to do much exploring in the graveyard, but it would've been a pretty walk. 
Danish landscape design is beautiful. The graves we did pass were decorated with fir boughs, wreaths and sculpted bushes. This scene will be filled with color again in the summertime.Afterward, we visited Mormor's house to warm up and have a few pieces of chocolate before dinner. Mormor had asked Uncle Ole to pick up some Leysieffer chocolate on his last trip to Germany in honor of my dad and our last name. Later, Mormor came to Karlslunde, and my mother cooked salmon and little potatoes and red cabbage. Delish.
And that was that. Two weeks in Denmark. Interesting; we saw almost no cell phones on this trip. There were people pushing shopping carts in the mall, and everywhere people were eating (at the bus stop, on their bikes, everywhere with the eating), but almost nobody yakking it up on the cellies. Weird! I thought the cell phone thing was a global epidemic. But maybe people were too busy eating to talk. That chill-to-the-bone weather, along with the walking/biking you have to do to get places, makes you want to eat all the time. That's probably why, even though I consumed around 6 lb of butter during these past two weeks--plus pastry, liver paste, rejeost, cheeses, rice pudding, chocolate and beer--I came back lighter than when I left.
A 10-hour plane trip later, my dad and I hit Atlanta and sunny, 80° Florida weather after that.
